Friday, 5 December 2014


My final destination of the Californian road trip, before I had to return to get busy applying for jobs (and climb on the Lleyn!) was bouldering in Bishop. We left for Bishop literally an hour or two after I got down from climbing Freerider in a day, which I was fairly grumpy about since I was a bit on the tired side, but from Andy and Lindy’s point of view they’d been ready to leave Yosemite for about a week and there was a storm due to hit at any minute! I was glad we made break before the strom, but only once we’d settled into the Pit campground and I’d caught up on some sleep.
Lindy on the Tut boulder
Reeve falling down a hole
Saigon - best problem!
Bishop has some great bouldering and the setting of the Buttermilks, desert hills surrounded by jagged snowy mountains, is stunning. I didn’t love the rock, it’s a coarse granite with lots of patina flakes, so it either wears out your skin or is so sharp that it bruises your fingers. It might be that I need to man-up though. For rock quality alone, I’d choose Yosemite, but the buttermilks has some great lines and some terrifying high-balls! I only had one day at the Happy boulders and never visited the Sads. Seems like the location isn’t as good as the Buttermilks, but from what I saw of the Happy’s, there are loads of good problems on much mellower rock.
Stained Glass
Reeve, almost sending
Last day bouldering
The highlights probably include bouldering at Rock Creek for a day; Saigon and Saigon Direct which were both brilliant and getting pretty close to doing Stained Glass with Reeve when we both had multiple bleeding tips on the last day. The best bit was the scene, we met loads of cool folk staying at the pit and there were a few things going on in Bishop too. A very nice way to end the trip, fun’s over now, almost, once I’m working. It seems to be Lleyn season back in Wales at the moment.
Travis from Reno, on Ljidia's Mouth

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